Here’s an update on the wildlife count that Caroline has been keeping track of.
1000+ Bison
11 Elk
23 Deer
12 Swan
2 Rabbit
1 Snake
9 Pronghorn
1 Fox
11 Mountain Goat
5 Lizard
8 Merriam’s Turkey
And chipmunks, squirrels and marmots…
–
Aug 15 2017
Here’s an update on the wildlife count that Caroline has been keeping track of.
1000+ Bison
11 Elk
23 Deer
12 Swan
2 Rabbit
1 Snake
9 Pronghorn
1 Fox
11 Mountain Goat
5 Lizard
8 Merriam’s Turkey
And chipmunks, squirrels and marmots…
–
Aug 14 2017
Monument Valley is on Navajo land which is in both Utah and Arizona. The state lines do not determine the area for the Navajo Nation which spans about 17 million acres across 3 states. We were staying in the Utah side of Monument Valley and would cross the state line into Arizona when we visited the Navajo Visitor Center, museum and gift store. It is also the starting point for many guided tour activities.
Driving towards Monument Valley
Monument Valley is most famous for the mesa and buttes that have been the backdrop for many movies from John Wayne’s western era all the way to something more recent like Indiana Jones, Mission Impossible and many others. The heavy metal band Metallica even shot a music video (I Disappear) on top of one of the buttes. Interestingly, the Navajo Nation sued Camel and Marlborough cigarette companies for using Monument Valley imagery in their advertisements once they found out smoking is linked to cancer. The landscape is quite something to behold, the red hues from the dirt, rocks and sandstone formations in contrast to the blue sky.
West Mitten Butte, Merrick Butte and East Mitten Butte
Since we only had one full day in Monument Valley, we knew exactly what we had to do to maximize our stay – a 3-hour cultural tour of the area and horseback riding. All the tours are run by the Navajo people and they are the only ones that can take you to the restricted areas in Monument Valley to see petroglyphs, interesting arches and sandstone formations.
Our guide for the cultural tour was extremely knowledgable about his people and history. He said the published history of the Navajo people is wrong as it is written by the perspective of outsiders who have no true understanding of their history and culture. Our first stop was a natural amphitheatre and when we arrived there was a Navajo guide singing a traditional song. After that our guide played the traditional flute. The whole experience was quite special – to listen to the music in a spectacular place. Definitely not an every day experience.
Walking towards the natural ampitheatre
In the late afternoon we went for a horseback ride on the Mittens Trail. It was the first time for the kids on horses. Marcus got the hang of it pretty fast but Caroline was just too timid to kick the horse to go faster, her horse just took his own sweet time along the trail. We rode the horses to the West Mitten butte and it was just amazing seeing it up close.
Against the famous Monument Valley backdrop
Our trip to Monument Valley was short but in that one day of touring we have learnt so much about the Navajo people and culture.
Aug 12 2017
Apparently we left Yellowstone a day early – we should have double-checked the schedule before but oh well, it all worked out well as we were able to get tickets for the highly coveted Fiery Furnace hike at Arches National Park. If we had left the day after, we would have been out of luck.
Partition Arch
Moab is an interesting town with a population of 5000. It is a tourist town with lots of outdoor activities. The day time average temperature has been hovering around 35C-39C. You will need to drink 4L of water per day, whether you are thirsty or not. This is to prevent dehydration or heat stroke. The air here is dry – so dry that I have a hard time removing my contact lenses at the end of the day. The air-conditioning in the 5th wheel has been running all day and night to keep it nice and cool. On the first day we made the mistake of turning it off while we were out exploring – it took forever to cool it down again. In the evenings, we would get really strong winds followed by lightning and rain. Fortunately this weather never interfered with our daytime activities.
Besides visiting the National Parks in the Moab region, a popular activity here is 4×4 or mountain biking in the Sand Flats Recreation area – famous for its slick rock. We joined a tour where Jeff and I drove our own UTV (side-by-side ATV). So the girls were on one UTV and the boys went on another UTV. We had so much FUN! It was a quite scary at first, especially when we were driving up the steep incline on slick rock. You think that the tires are going to slip from right under you… fortunately that was not the case, the rocks are not slick at all, in fact quite grippy. They call it slick rock from back in the days when the horses would slip because of the horseshoes, the term stuck on. We have some cool dash-cam footage of the UTV adventure but the videos do not do it any justice, you don’t get a very good perspective of how steep the trail is. And they don’t call the trail Hell’s Revenge for no reason!
The boys in a UTV
In the Sand Flats Recreation area overlooking the Colorado River
We did the obligatory hikes in Arches National Park and saw many.. you got it, arches. Driving through the park is a surreal experience, you feel so tiny driving by these colossal red stone formations. Many of the formations are named… quite simply, nothing scientific, no fancy latin root word. For example, Owl Rock, Balancing Rock, Ham leg rock.. you get the idea 🙂
Landscape Arch
The best hike in Arches is the ranger-led hike to Fiery Furnace. This activity is usually sold out months in advance, but because of the road construction in the park, they only sell the tickets up to 7 days in advance at the Visitor Center, which fortunately worked out for us. Fiery Furnace is a beautiful yet confusing place. It is very easy to get lost and a GPS will not help you as it is very difficult to get a satellite signal from all those towering sandstone walls. In fact our ranger has been lost in the area on 3 previous occasions. The number of people allowed in Fiery Furnace is very limited – it is a sensitive environment that the Park is protecting. In fact many of the hand rails and signs from the 1960s have been removed in an effort to return to its natural state.
Fiery Furnace
Hiking through Fiery Furnace was extremely enjoyable. You are away from the crowds and you see arches and formations not many people do. We did interesting things, crawling through a crack, a reverse crab-walked down a steep edge, traverse side to side facing the wall and then flipped around to traverse side to side where our bodies were only perhaps a foot from the ground, that was quite interesting! We learned so much from the ranger – about the environment, the plants and animals in the area and even about himself.
Inside Fiery Furnace
Twin Arch. Also known as Skull Arch if you look at it upside down
Many people try to catch a sunrise or sunset while here in Moab. Star gazing is another popular activity but we’re just not night owls so we never really got into it. According the the person at the Visitor Center, he said Deadhorse Point has the best sunrise in the US, better than Hawaii. So, at 5am we set off for Deadhorse Point…. what a name right?! When we arrived, the area was still lit by the full moon and it was quite nice to take in this view without the hordes of tourists. Soon the Sun started to rise and we could see the band of orange and red sky behind the clouds.
Sunrise at Deadhorse Point
Deadhorse Point
After Deadhorse Point, we made our way to explore Canyonlands National Park. There is a place called Mesa Arch which according to guidebooks is where you catch the best sunrise.
Mesa Arch, just after sunrise
After spending quite a number of days in the Moab area, we are ready to make our way to the next stop – Monument Valley. It’s going to be another scorcher there!
Aug 07 2017
Yellowstone is America’s oldest park at 150 years old – the same age as Canada! Yellowstone’s habitat is so diverse.. grasslands, forests, mountain slopes, wetlands and aquatic. Each habitat is home to the many different wildlife that live in Yellowstone.
We saw a lot of wildlife – bison, elk, pronghorn, mountain goat, Canada goose, ducks and other birds we could not identify. Yellowstone is a huge park, the main road is like a figure of eight and is known as the Grand Loop Road. It can easily take up to 90mins to drive a quarter of the loop. Then you have the added challenge of traffic coming to a standstill because of wildlife..
When we backed out the truck, we saw this bison coming down our way!
Along the trail to Mt Washburn. Mountain Goats
Thousands of bisons roam freely here in Yellowstone
Aside from wildlife, Yellowstone is also famous for geothermal activities – hot springs, geysers, fumaroles (steam vents) and mud pots. Ya, mud pots – bubbling mud like a witch’s brew.
Bubbling mud pot
Grand Prismastic
When in Yellowstone, everyone talks about Old Faithful – the most reliable geyser when it comes to an eruption. The other geysers in the parks do not erupt as reliably or as often. We witnessed Old Faithful erupt about 3 times, our timing just worked out without the long anticipation.
The other famous Old Faithful in Yellowstone Park is the Old Faithful Inn. Once you step in you’ll go wow! Look at the wood and that giant fire place.
Old Faithful Inn
Old Faithful Geyser eruption
We managed to get in a couple hikes. The best hike is perhaps to Mystic Falls. Just so beautiful! My kind of waterfall with the multi-drops!
Mystic Falls
Grand Canyon of Yellowstone
On the last day, we took a day trip to Grand Tetons National Park. The park is known for the mountain range – specifically the Teton Range. Unfortunately for us, it was pretty hazy and we did not see the mountains in its full glory. We think the haze is caused from a forest fire but we couldn’t figure out where..
The Grand Tetons
We are on the road now – I’m writing this entry in the truck as Jeff is driving. We are on our way to Moab, Utah. I bet it’s going to be hot there!
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